Buying Guide

Buy your next car smarter

Current US-market advice on negotiating, financing, leasing, and the deals worth taking right now. Updated as the market moves.

Financing

The hour before you shop is worth $3,000

Financing is where dealerships make their real money. Salesperson commission on a vehicle is usually $200–$500. The F&I office can add class="relative z-10",500–$3,000 of profit through interest-rate markup, extended warranties, and add-ons. Pre-approving outside the dealership removes most of that leverage.

Current rate landscape (April 2026)

New-car loan averages with excellent credit run around 6.4% APR for 60 months. Average credit is closer to 9.5%. Your real number depends on your FICO Auto Score 8 or 9, which is the version lenders use for car loans (different from what Credit Karma shows).

  • Super-prime (781+): 5.9–6.6%
  • Prime (661–780): 7.0–8.5%
  • Near-prime (601–660): 9.0–12.0%
  • Subprime (501–600): 13.0–17.0%

Get pre-approved before you shop

This is the single highest-leverage move in any car deal. Walking in with a 30-day pre-approval from a credit union does three things at once:

  1. Locks in your worst case. Whatever the dealer quotes, you have a number to beat.
  2. Removes the F&I office's main pricing tool. They have to actually win the deal.
  3. Lets you negotiate price, financing, and trade-in separately. That's where buyers win.

Best places: credit unions (PenFed, Navy Federal, Alliant typically beat banks by 0.5–1.0 percentage points), online lenders (LightStream, Capital One Auto Navigator), and your existing bank as a baseline.

Manufacturer 0% APR vs. cash incentive

Captive lenders sometimes offer subsidized rates that beat your pre-approval. Real, not negotiable. But the 0% APR usually replaces a cash rebate. Read both options carefully. On a $40,000 truck, a $3,000 cash rebate at 6.5% APR can be cheaper over 60 months than 0% APR with no cash. Run both numbers.

The four F&I traps to decline

  1. Extended warranty pressure. Marked up 60–100%. If you want one, buy from your credit union or directly from a third-party for half the price.
  2. GAP insurance from the dealer. $700– class="relative z-10",000 dealer price vs $200–$400 from your auto insurer. Useful product, wrong source.
  3. Tire-and-wheel and paint protection. Pure margin. Decline.
  4. 72+ month loans. The longer the term, the more interest you pay and the longer you stay underwater. If you have to stretch the term to make the payment work, the car is too expensive.

Full breakdown with rate-shop scripts and credit-pull strategy: How to Finance a New Car in 2026.